由於當天下午已預約在世界最美的紐約咖啡館單人位置,於是抱持看書的心情進這間書店。
「天下皆以美斯為美,斯惡矣」這句老子名言成立,去的時候呢,書櫃裝潢比書講究,藝品
比書豐美,甚至賣的花果白巧克力還比看書有價值(Wow他真的好吃又實惠),在失望之餘,
我跑上二樓的食譜區管窺當地風俗,卻被一本書的精緻深深吸引。
Considering this article may be read by worldwide readers, after trying Google translation and having a not acceptable one, I do the translation for all of you.
2016, I visited Budapest, Hungary. With curiosity, I went to the one of the most beautiful cafe, Alexandra Bookcafé. But I had a reservation for New York Cafe that afternoon, so, I visited it
, not for coffee, but for a question : "How beautiful it can be?"
"When beauty is abstracted, then ugliness has been implied." Laozi said. Its decoration was better than books on the selves, souvenirs also, even the white chocolates with dried strawberries there were better than books. Somehow disappointed, I ran to the second floor for Hungarian recipes, but I was attracted by this book.
至於為什麼上面那一段我要翻譯呢?是因為這個部落格除了廣大台灣讀者外,自從我上次教大家做史達林肉餅並且很矯揉造作的翻譯成英文之後,俄羅斯讀者成為穩定的群體,當我將老子的那段話放到Google Translator翻成英文,卻得到「以美國的美為美」這種詭異的結果,因此自己動手翻。
言歸正傳,講回這本書。
以前據說有位俄羅斯廚師來港台巡迴,他是莫斯科白兔餐廳的主廚,然後我看到一篇以中文文章的心得文,說俄羅斯在沙皇時期有很精緻的料理,這些美麗的文化卻被「粗野」的紅軍士兵毀掉了,取而代之的是粗俗的羅宋湯、黑麵包。
其實他完完全全弄反了,如果稍稍看一下白兔提供的菜單,他提供的是「法式俄餐」,基礎是歐陸貴族傾慕法國文化的產物,其實不是俄羅斯傳統料理,在沙皇時期的俄國,有讀過書的人基本會使用法語,在當時的知識分子對俄語是有偏見的,所以才需要普希金等文學家把俄語給文學化、標準化。用一個外來文化產物對比傳統料理,這一點或許是作者對於紅色政府,甚至是「紅色」羅宋湯的偏見吧,畢竟傳統跟粗俗其實是兩種定義,羅宋湯是很質樸的菜餚,但不粗,在清末民初就被中國人拿來改良,變成中國口味的羅宋湯,因為二戰後大量上海人跑到香港,也把這道上海西餐的口味帶進了香港。
以下提供四種羅宋湯的作法供各位參考:
A. 書上的羅宋湯(Authentic recipe)
材料(Ingredients):
牛高湯 兩公升 (Beef Stock 2-2.5 Litres)
甜菜根 400克 (Beetroot 400g)
醋 3湯匙 (Vinegar 3tbsp)
蛋 清 1個 (One egg white)
紅椒粉 1茶匙 (Cayenne Peper 1tsp)
糖 1茶匙 (Sugar 1tsp)
作法:
1. 將切好的甜菜根、醋、蛋清加到高湯裡,用小火悶燉15-20分鐘。
撒上紅椒粉、糖,再悶5-7分鐘。
Add the finely chopped beetroot, 3 tbsp vinegar and 1 egg white to the stock,
place over a low heat and simmer for 15-20 mins. Add 1 tsp cayenne pepper and
sugar for a further 5-7 mins.
2. 撈去油脂,並以篩子濾除雜質
Skim off the fat, then run through a sieve.
B. 加牛肉與酸奶油版本的羅宋湯(Russian Style, with Beef and Sour Cream)
1. 清水小火燉牛肉塊1小時,撇除雜質。
Simmer Beef cubes(600 g) for 1 hour, and run through a sieve.
2. 同A,但不加醋
The same as "A" steps, but no vinegar.
3. 在湯中加一湯匙酸奶油
Serve the soup on a plate, add 1 tbsp sour cream.
在上一篇文章講的史達林肉餅,有提到上海西餐的作法,有效考量物力維艱與華人
獨愛的食物油香氣,而東北俄餐也繼承此一作法。
好玩的事情是,明明是華人的俄餐讓俄餐變油,上個世紀初卻有人誤會俄羅斯婦女
變胖是因為俄餐的油很重,我想這是天大的誤會。
C. 上海海派西餐/東北俄餐式羅宋湯(Shanghai or Manchuria Style)
1. 先小火融化奶油,再開中火炒香牛肉塊
Melt butter with low heat, and stir-fry Beef cubes(600g) with medium heat until cubes are well-done.
2. 取出牛肉塊,用鍋中的油分炒蒜末、番茄、胡蘿蔔,炒軟番茄後加牛高湯(沒過材料)悶煮20-30分鐘
Take out Beef cubes, and stir fry finely chopped garlic(2 valves, cut into slides), tomatoes(5, remove skin and seed) and carrot(1/2,chopped). After tomato become paste like, and 1 liter of beef stock and simmer for 20-30 mins.
3. 放入牛肉塊,添加一茶匙鹽,再煮10分鐘
Add beef cubes into the soup and 1 tsp of salt for a further 10 mins.
4. 在湯中加一湯匙酸奶油
Serve the soup on a plate, add 1 tbsp sour cream.
5. 番茄可替換成甜菜根
For Authentic taste, tomato can be replaced by beetroot.
D. 金氏羅宋湯(KJL Style)
材料(Ingredients):
水 兩公升(Two litres of water)
番茄 5顆 (5 tomatoes)
牛肉 600克 (600g Beef)
紅椒粉 2茶匙 (Paprika 2 tsp)
沙拉油 3湯匙 (Oil 2 tbsp)
高麗菜 半顆 (Cabbage 1/2)
鹽 1湯匙 (Salt 1tbsp)
1. 小火煮高麗菜(別上蓋),加鹽
Boil roughly chopped cabbage (low heat), add salt.
2. 熱油鍋,炒番茄、牛肉,直到牛肉略焦
Heat up a wok, stir-fry finely chopped tomatoes(Remove skin and seeds) and beef cubes,
Until beef cubes start to turn a little bit brown.
3. 在鍋中加入高麗菜湯和高麗菜,湯要沒過食材
Add cabbage into the wok, then add soup into the wok until the soup covers all ingredients.
4. 小火悶煮15分鐘
Simmer for 15 mins (Low heat).
5. 起鍋前加入紅椒粉
Before turning off the heat , add paprika.
“The Veteran in a New Field”
以前上地理課,老師趣談俄國旅遊,說黑麵包「有夠難吃」,附上精采的表情。
這位老師對我很好,當年還把他的消費券分一半給我,另一半給另一個同學。
後來去德國,我大概自己吃一個月的黑麵包吧,他有白麵包產生不了的香氣與韻味,
黑麵包是佐湯的首選。